Figure 11 shows a sequence of about 260 step-by-step run-up events (the extreme horizontal extent of a water tongue from some reference point) observed on 9 October 2006. The model results of wave run-up, together with the field data from 9 and 10 October are plotted in Figure 12. The thick line in the Figure indicates the range of the measured in situ wave run up, the dot is the mean run-up height based on measurements (the standard deviation is denoted here by the letter σ) and the cross shows the run-up height obtained from numerical computations.

It can be seen in Figure 12 that the model run-up heights in both cases lie within the range of values measured in situ; nevertheless, these values are slightly underestimated, especially in the first case. Bearing in mind that the conditions actually recorded (random/irregular) are represented in the model input by the representative wave parameters, namely the root-mean-square wave height Hrms Selleckchem ERK inhibitor and the peak period Tp, compliance can be regarded as satisfactory. In the computations of sediment

HKI-272 price transport rates and the 24 h evolution of the beach face, the median grain size diameter was assumed to be d50 = 0.22 mm (with settling velocity ws = 0.028 m s− 1), in accordance with the parameters of the actual sediment sampled in the nearshore zone of the Lubiatowo site. In the modelling of morphological bed changes, water level variations were taken into account. Epothilone B (EPO906, Patupilone) The results relating to the net sediment transport rates and the bottom changes are shown in Figure 13 and Figure 14 respectively. The computed net sediment transport rates shown in Figure 13 first decrease slightly and then increase rapidly in front of the intersection of the beach face with the still water level. Landwards of this intersection,

the transport rates again decrease considerably. Figure 14 presents the results of the 24 h numerical simulation of the nearshore sea bed changes (dashed-dotted line), together with the measured initial and final bottom profiles (dashed and solid lines respectively). The theoretical curve computed for the representative wave (Hrms = 0.1 m, Tp = 7 s) reflects features of the sediment transport rates from Figure 13. The significant spatial variability of the net transport rates concentrated around the shoreline point causes local significant erosion and accumulation effects. These effects correspond qualitatively to the observed beach face evolution. The range of bottom changes caused by the representative wave spreads from 28.5 m to 37 m (see Figure 14). This is a much shorter distance than for measured random waves, for which changes were observed in the range 16 m–44 m. In order to take the above into account when comparing the model results with the measurements, the computed values (dashed-dotted line) were extended over the real area of sediment motion: the erosion and accumulation volumes were preserved.